Thoughts Near the End of Our Stay

As our departure date approaches, I reflect often on what I will miss about Japan and Kyoto. The first thing that comes to mind is one of the first things I noticed when we arrived: the way that people have of moving around each other, of intuitively knowing what’s going on all around them and gracefully moving to approach, but almost never collide, with others. One sees this in subway stations and stores, but mostly on the street. Sidewalks may be narrow or non-existent. Bicycles move back and forth between street and sidewalk. Motor scooters, cars, trucks, buses, bicycles and pedestrians all share the same thoroughfare. And it’s almost silent. Honking is so rare as to astonish on each occasion.

Speaking of silence, cell phone use is prohibited on subways and buses.

Schools (at least in our neighborhood) don’t have bells. They have chimes. There are several tunes, ranging from four notes to a full eight bars. Presumably each has its own meaning.

Every neighborhood has its koban, or police box, staffed with friendly, helpful officers who can help you find an address or retrieve something you’ve left somewhere or just get information about the area. They probably get bored. They seem to love visitors.

There are clean public restrooms everywhere. They don’t provide warm water for washing—only cold and sometimes no soap; sometimes you have to bring your own tissue; almost always you need your own towel—everyone carries a small towel or large handkerchief with them for the purpose. But they are clean, and they are ubiquitous.

You can get anywhere by train—by trains that run on time. Really, I think that all right-thinking Americans need to get on our Congress people to fund Amtrak better and to give it priority on track use so trains can run on time. You arrive at the station minutes before “take-off”. The station is close by and easy to get to. Seats are comfortable, with plenty of legroom. You can bring food from home without worry that it will confiscated at security. For much of the travel that we all do, total travel time is shorter, or at least no longer, than flying, and it’s certainly much more pleasant. Let’s import the no cell phone use rule, too.

On the subject of transportation, the fare boxes in buses and trolleys have change machines attached. This doesn’t hold up boarding because you board at the back and pay your fare when you get off at the front. You’re supposed to get your change sometime in between.

You notice I haven’t mentioned the food. But I have become quite fond of some of the local pickles that Kyoto and other places are famous for. My favorite is a Takayama specialty: pre-tofu albumin boiled in soy sauce with some other stuff—not technically a pickle I guess and sounds awful, but tastes delicious. I also love (from Kyoto) pickled baby ginger—not at all like the slices that we get with sushi at home.

Photos in order: 1. A School Zone sign; 2. An umbrella stand; 3. Toilet with sink built into the back; 4. Fare box with change machine attached. The lighted board tells you what your fare is based on where you boarded.